The Last BC Pill in all of Taiwan

By ~
| Learning | Marriage | Yonghe |

Before I can tell you, our Western friends and family, about how and why I ended up in a giant walk-in refrigerator at 1:00 am tonight digging through mountains of garbage bags and sifting through cat litter, you need to know some basics about garbage collection in Taipei.

If that hook is just too good for you to pass up, click the truck.

 

Garbage collection for most people in our neighbourhood goes something like this: The street and sidewalks are full of the usual afternoon urban hustle and bustle. A man on a scooter ringing a large hand-bell drives down the busy street. People appear on the side of the street, holding plastic bags full of garbage. Soon, a garbage truck blaring an Ice-Cream-Man-inspired version of Fur Elise appears (photos & audio here), following the scooter’s route. The people either toss their garbage onto the truck as it drives past or wait for it to stop at an intersection.

We are privileged, because our rather upscale apartment complex has a location on the ground for recycling and garbage. We just take our stuff down there, where there are dedicated bins for different materials and a big walk-in refrigerator for the garbage. This afternoon we cleaned the apartment because people were coming over, and I took down maybe four or five bags of garbage. At the time, there wasn’t much in the refrigerator.

Fast-forward to 12:45am. Our friends have come and gone. Jessica is getting ready for bed. She looks on top of the microwave, which I’d cleaned off earlier. It had been piled with dead leaves, receipts, old empty pill packs, burned out candles, junk.

“Where’d you put the pills?”

Shoot. The only pills I remember were two empty (they were both empty, weren’t they?) pill packs that I’d tossed in the garbage. Which garbage, I don’t remember.

“Um…” After 10 minutes of searching our tidy and recently cleaned apartment, the only possible place left was the garbage bags I’d taken down 8 hours earlier. What to do?

Now, there are two important exceptional, intensifying factors here. First, what was once a plentiful, over-the-counter drug at local pharmacies (no prescription required!) has suddenly disappeared from pharmacy shelves in Taiwan. We were told it was discontinued in Taiwan. She can’t just start the next pack – the missing one is our only pack, the pack that was buying us time until we can track down some more.

The second factor is Thailand. Starting Feb. 9th, we begin two weeks in Chiang-mai that are required by the NGO – first at a hotel, and then at some sort of resort. We’ve been planning to make the most of it, and resorting to back-up is not my idea of making the most of it.

It wasn’t a hard decision: I’ve got to find those garbage bags. How much garbage could have accumulated in 8 hours in one of the most densely populated places in the world?

I couldn’t see the floor. I couldn’t even see most of the garbage cans. It was like there was a garbage-making contest no one had told us about. I vaguely remembered which cans I’d tossed the bags into (back when they were uncovered). I started tossing bags. Miraculously, at the bottom of the second can I’d exhumed, I found one of our bags. It was the extra big bag, the one I’d dumped the cat litter into. And there I was, alone save for one black alley cat, sifting garbage like some kind of crime scene investigator (or mangy alley cat).

I found three pill packs in that garbage bag. Two were empty. The third had… one pill. One. That’s all we had left in that pack. One last pill, meaning my foray into forensics was pretty much pointless, even though this is possibly the last pill in all of Taiwan.

But there’s still hope. Some friends are checking into some things for us, and we’re visiting a giant mega-pharmacy tomorrow morning. That should be my last garbage adventure for a while.

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Just had an earthquake

By ~
| Yonghe |

We just had an earthquake… literally 30 seconds ago. I’m at the school and I could see the Christmas ornaments on the tree swinging, but only two of the four of us in the room could feel it.

Weird!

Update:

earthquakemap1.gif
It was 6.2, the red star is the epicenter. We’re in the north in Taipei county. Earthquake #5 for this year.
 

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A day in the life… (12 of 12 Jan ’07)

By ~
| People | Photo posts | Students | Teaching English | Things we've eaten | Yonghe |

Bowing to peer pressure (everybody’s doing it), we bring you our first 12 of 12: 12 pictures from our life on the 12th of the month. Click Neil to show/hide the day’s photos.

1. Squeegeeing the bathroom floor after my (Joel) morning shower (10:15am). In Chinese bathrooms the sink/shower/toilet all share the same floor and there’s no shower curtain, so when you shower water gets more places. We introduced a shower curtain and squeegee in an attempt to not get wet footprints all over the apartment, since we haven’t learned how to take showers properly yet (welcome to cross-cultural living! =). Fire Chicken (火雞 – named for the weekend she was rescued from the street) “helps,” every morning.

 
 
 
 

2. Waking up my bride (10:25am). Chòu-chòu (臭臭 – we got her the week we first tried stinky dofu) likes to help.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

3. Hanging up laundry that I forgot about and left in the washer for two days (10:30). Jessica does the dishes and cooks dinner on our days off, I do the laundry and take care of the cats.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

4. Breakfast, our one Western meal every day: oatmeal with cranberries and cinnamon, fruit, and green tea (11am). Also check e-mail. Cats broke the teapot lid.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

5. The 3 minute walk to work, literally down the street (12:10pm). Look at the people: older guy out for a stroll with a mask on, moms on scooters and bikes picking up their kids from school . 20 minutes earlier all the area left of the yellow box was packed solid with moms on scooters picking up the kids pouring out of the local public school.

 
 
 

6. Kiki (a Level 3 student) and Yang Mama (our surrogate mother in Taiwan, our boss’ actual mother) greet us at the door of Pacific English Institute, where we teach ages 6-16 and help develop curriculum.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

7. Lunch at PEI with Neil and Kiki, who arrive earlier than the others every day (12:30pm). Today it’s 便當 aka “Taiwanese lunchbox” – fastfood Taiwan style. These things can vary, but today’s is classic: fried pork, fried dofu cube, boiled egg, cabbage and greens on rice. Neil’s having a good time. I bet hundreds of thousands of these are consumed every lunchtime in Taiwan.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

8. Sharing some rum-soaked homemade fruitcake from Canada (baked and sent over by my mom) with our friends/co-workers at PEI (2:30pm?). It got mixed reviews: some liked it, one’s first words were, “肉桂!” (cinnamon). Traditionally, Taiwanese don’t like cinnamon. I think Yang Mama liked it though.

 
 
 

9. Teaching (6:15pm) – what we do at work when we’re not typing lesson plans, grading, or tutoring. Jessica had some of our youngest students today. They always love storytime with her.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

10. Seeing the kids off (6:45pm). I’m pretty sure her dad doesn’t let her drive yet.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

11. Dinner at work (7pm). Tonight it’s 鍋貼 (fried dumplings). Got two older kids coming for tutoring any minute.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

12. Stopping to chat with Lao Zhao on the way home from work (9:20pm). He’s a blast to talk to, and he also teaches us how to play mahjong. His wife, who’s really sweet, is in the foreground.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

BONUS. Relaxing at home on the couch (10pm), not doing any grad school work, with some hot eggnog and Christmas baking sent over from Canada (yay mom! =).

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 Edited to add: Here’s the growing list of others who did 12 of 12 today.

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Our First Taiwan Earthquake

By ~
| Taipei | Yonghe |

We experienced our first Taiwan earthquake… at least, the first one that one of us noticed.

Around 8:30 last night we were sitting on the couch and Jessica asked, “Do you feel something shaking?” I didn’t, but I was so dizzy and stuffed up that I didn’t really feel anything anyway. Later that night Steve asked over gmail, “hey, did you feel the earthquake there?” I didn’t know what he was talking about until he sent me a link to a CNN report:

Tuesday’s quake was felt throughout Taiwan. It swayed buildings and knocked objects off the shelves in the capital, Taipei, in the northern part of the island.

Then Jessica looked up Taiwan’s Central Weather Bureau and sure enough, a 6.7 at 8:26pm!

It was the second anniversary of the big tsunami, which was also Chairman Mao’s birthday.

Some of our friends here felt it, too. I guess it’s not all that uncommon.

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Recent photos from here & there

By ~
| Family | Photo posts | Yonghe |

We got some photos from home of their first SNOW. It just so happened that I took some photos here on those same days. You could say there’s a slight contrast. Click here for the gallery. And here’s one from each from here and there. Click the pictures for a bigger view.


A breakfast cart on the way to work around 8:50am beside a tree that somehow doesn’t seem to mind the asphalt too much. I’m glad they appreciate trees and green stuff here, at least in our neighbourhood. This tree shades these ladies from the November sun. I thought it was interesting the way the roots come up through the road. I suppose there’s a metaphor in there somewhere.


The night before a snowstorm closed roads in greater Vancouver and canceled school. Aaaahhhh…

More pictures from Here & There.

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[Photo Gallery:] Here & There – November ’06

By ~
| Photo Gallery | Places | Taipei | Vancouver | Yonghe |

Family sent some pictures from home of Vancouver’s first snow this year. It just happened that I had taken some pictures in Yonghe on those same days.

Here
In the Yonghe photos you’ll see morning commuters’ breakfast, Yonghe style, at 8:45am on our walk to work. Yonghe is known for its breakfast foods and drinks, and you can get stuffed quick with rice rolls, bean drinks, onion buns, and all kinds of stuff. The 2nd breakfast photo has a tree beside the cart that is growing right through the asphalt – I guess they just paved around it. There’s a mostly empty subway car at around 10:50am. Don’t be deceived… these things get packed fuller than the Skytrain after a game. But when they’re full it’s hard to get a picture without being right up in somebody’s face. I also tried to find the sky from our bathroom and bedroom windows.
There
Photos from the first snow in Vancouver that closed the roads.

Scroll down to read or write comments!

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[Photo Gallery:] ESL Thanksgiving Dinner in Taipei, Taiwan

By ~
| People | Photo Gallery | Places | Students | Taipei | Teaching English | Yonghe |

We had a massive Thanksgiving Dinner event with the school with close to 100 people. Jessica and Yang Mama did most of the cooking.

You can read about it here:

Scroll down to read or write comments!

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Holy Santa, Batman! & Very cool Chinese Firefox plugin

By ~
| Yonghe |

Christmas is coming; we hereby officially claim the first Christmas-related post of 2006.

“Holy Santa, Batman!”
We’re visiting the Museum of World Religions tomorrow, a famous museum in Yonghe for the promotion of Buddhism pluralism mutual respect and acceptance among religions. Check out the website; it’s really flashy. The real action is on the Chinese version, but there’s still a big English site.

The museum’s website profiles the major world religions by mythology, ritual, pilgrimage, history, and figure. Personally, I think it’s too artificial to apply the same grid to every religion because it forces them all into an artificial shape that will be more or less appropriate depending on the religion. But it’ll be interesting to learn about Eastern religions from people that practice them, and hear their perspective of Christianity, the ‘Western’ religion.

Speaking of which, go here and select “Religions” (on the left) : “Christianity” (top right) : and “Mythology” (in the middle). Christian mythology – I was expecting maybe something on the Genesis creation accounts, the Exodus, or maybe the Incarnation, Resurrection, or Judgment Day. What do we get instead? Go see for yourself, or

click this (open/close).
Santa Claus ~
The legend of Santa Claus originated from the story of Odin, a god of wisdom, art, poetry and war in Scandinavian mythology of several thousand years ago. Every winter, Odin would ride his galloping eight-foot steed around the world, punishing the evil and honoring the good, and also giving gifts to his people. His son Thor, the god of thunder, wears a red outfit. He uses his thunderbolt as a weapon to defeat the multitude of gods in the dark, icy land and conquer the freezing cold.
Santa Claus is said to be a descendant of Odin. Because these stories all champion a Christian spirit, Santa Claus stays in people’s minds long after the sources and details of these stories were forgotten. In the descriptions of later writers and artists, Santa Claus appears as a lovable old grandpa with a long white beard, wearing his familiar red outfit.

I’m not questioning their intelligence, but I would like to ask, “What the heck kind of message is Western culture communicating???” And if you’re going to do historical research on Santa, there should at least be something about Saint Nicholas.

Chinese Firefox plugin
This is great – I just found it. When you mouseover any Chinese characters, like the ones in our sidebars, it instantly gives a translation. And there’s a bunch of other features I haven’t tried yet. All you have to do is go here and install the plugin. Then right click on a page and select “Toggle Chinesepera_kun.”

But you have to be using Firefox, which has been giving me a faster, ad-free internet for months now.

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English Speech contest justice

By ~
| People | Students | Teaching English | Yonghe |

Four of our students were in a city-wide English speech contest today for Grade 6 and under. That’s not so exciting, except that it had a sort of Disney-style, underdog-cheering, Hollywood ending. We’re really proud of our students Chester, Claire, Thomas, and Cody!

Our kids are public school kids. The public schools don’t bother sending many students to the contest because they know they can’t compete with the elite private bilingual schools in English. The private schools prepare for months for this contest – winning has big marketing potential. Our kids? They started drawing idea webs two weeks ago and practiced speaking for a couple days. Jessica and I added zero content. We helped them organize their ideas into “beginning, middle, ending” and make idea webs so they’d have enough content to draw from. And we recorded mp3s of us reading their speeches for them to practice with (one girl slept with Jessica’s on repeat all night long). All the speeches were titled, “My School Life.”

One of our kids, Thomas, went first. He was tiny, 7 years old, petrified, and other than the customary bow didn’t move the whole time. After him, the prep school kids started going. They didn’t even bother with the microphone but just belted their speech/performance. Their teachers were giving them cues from the audience for their over-the-top, canned, choreographed gestures. It was painful, like watching cheesy commercials for their school, scripts that were so flowery and overwrought that it was obvious the kids didn’t write (or choreograph) them. One kid actually said that his school’s great program “helps me become self-actualized.” Self-actualized? Are you kidding me? He’s 10! And on top of all that, every single speech had the same super expressive, positive, “we LOVE school AND learning and our GREEEEAT TEACHERS!” where every possible word had a poses or gesture or prop. It was a total gong show.

But these kids were good. It was obvious that they’d given it their best effort for weeks. They had everything perfectly memorized, every facial expression, voice inflection, gesture, everything was there, and they showed no fear. Our kids were mostly too scared to remember everything, had no choreography and hadn’t thought of props, and Jessica and I had edited out the extra big words that their parents had put in the first drafts (no 7-year-old EFL kid is honestly using “correlated”). We weren’t expecting any of our kids to place in the top six as we waited for the judges to say their piece and give the final scores.

6th place was a three-way tie between the least fake-sounding of the private school kids. 5th was Chester! We could see that the teachers from the private schools were surprised… but so was Chester’s mom. 4th place was a private school girl who really did a good job. 3rd place was Thomas, the littlest of all – the crowd audibly gasped and the people around him cheered. And by now the private school teachers were visibly upset. 2nd place was Chester’s sister Claire! Their mom was floored. And first place was Cody! Cody, who didn’t even want to do it but his parents dragged him to PEI and sat there at the desk prodding him while I helped him with his idea-web. His whole speech started with, “I go to school every day because if I don’t, the police will cart me off the jail” and included a part about a kid puking (we opted to ‘let the kids express their own thoughts’ ;) ). We couldn’t believe it! The private school kids cried. Their teachers were furious and started discussing conspiracy theories. Our boss had us get out of their ASAP because he didn’t want any of their wrath directed at PEI… we’re a small start up and those schools are big players in the English learning scene. But he’s ecstatic that our kids won.

Apparently the judges appreciated the honesty. In their general feedback (before the marks) they compared the private school speeches to a particularly cheesy series of English buxiban commercials, among other criticisms. We were so glad to see that our kids’ honest efforts were rewarded.

The one bright spot among the 30 speeches was this one kid, about 11, who easily had the thickest accent in the contest. I guess he figured he had no chance of winning so he decided to have fun with it. He opened his speech with a rap, told a story about dressing up like a hula dancer (and did the dance for us with a pink scarf on), and then put on swim shorts over his pants and told a story about swimming to fast and his shorts came off (while pulling the shorts down) and his friend commenting on his bum. He didn’t win anything, but he had my vote.

UPDATE: I stole and edited Claire’s and Chester’s from their school’s website.

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Notes on a local passing

By ~
| Buddhism | Chinese folk religion | Meta-narratives | Photo posts | Yonghe |

Right now there’s a funeral/memorial/what they do when someone dies in Taiwan going on a couple doors down from our apartment complex on the route to work. These things go for 49 days; this one’s been going for about 10.

The front of a business has been turned into a memorial site with chairs and tables spread from the door to the street. Inside has a table with offerings (food, wine, incense) on it. On the walls are photos of the deceased and pictures of (I’m assuming) the ancestors, with lots of flowers and lotus decorations made from folded spirit money. Outside on the sidewalk around the tables and chairs are big flower arrangements, large specially decorated packages of gifts (like beer and pop) and a big metal holding bin for burning large amounts of spirit money. When we walk through it at 12pm on the way to work, relatives are there eating and talking. When we walk back through it at 9pm, people are also there, eating and talking.

We asked our practicum advisor for information during our last practicum debriefing meeting. Turned up some interesting (and unexpected) details, some of which I’ve bolded. ***These are just tidbits from our notes – the terminology isn’t accurate and it’s not a general representation of Taiwanese funeral rites. We often only learn about things bits and pieces at a time, through experiences like this. Somewhere in our pile of reading I know there is a whole big explanation of funeral customs – but this isn’t it. Still, some interesting stuff.

[Discussion Notes]
Jessica asks about the ongoing funeral/memorial near our apartment, about last night when they were wearing KKK-looking white hoods. White hoods: worn by relatives of the dead. Special ceremony is performed every 7 days for 49 days. Doesn’t know why 49 days (7 7′s?). By the end of 49 days they will perform a ceremony that transports the dead to the place “sort of like heaven.” Fundamental differences: Taiwanese believe people have three souls: one stays with the shrine, one goes for reincarnation, one goes to “heaven.” The body stays there for 49 days: behind the wall of the memorial there is a big freezer with the body in it (if they can afford it they don’t go for cremation).

They want to consider the fung shui of the tomb, and after 5/10 years (unsure how many) or so they check the tomb to check the bones (if there is flesh attached it means there is something unfinished… more ritual/ceremony/sacrifices are required).

Probably offensive not to burn the incense to the dead, although Christian pastors would tell you not to burn the incense. He says this is not the right place to claim your own religious distinction; it’s rude not to burn the incense.

Purposes of the funeral: show respect, and also it’s the final act of your life, everyone has to be there to go through the final stage of the person’s life to lead them to “the West.” It’s a necessary act – step to take – or else the person would be uninitiated (unable to reincarnate, go to the West, or rest in peace, they would be a wandering ghost).

About 90% of the population does this kind of ritual we’re talking about. South and North may have details that are different. When these times come, the service providers have the whole systems worked out.

Is it Buddhist, Daoist, Confucian? They probably wouldn’t even know.

There’s a way to communicate with the god or the spirits – casting new moon shaped lots (jiao1 bei1) on the ground in the temple – the results of their throw tell them what they need to know.

Christian funerals seem disrespectful. Less days waiting, you don’t hear people bawling at the Christian funerals. Who decided what Christian funerals are supposed to be like? Missionaries? Local pastors? He doesn’t know. There is some wiggle room. Death and funerals is a generally avoided topic.

Departed (recent Hollywood movie) based on a Hong Kong movie (English title: Infernal Affairs) that has this very Buddhist message re: suffering and death (Chinese title actually refers to the worst part of hell, but as a metaphor for the life we experience and its suffering): death is a relief from suffering if you’ve cultivated yourself.

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A North American couple with a background in Intercultural Studies tries to make a life in China. This is our coping mechanismblog.

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    瓜子脸

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    Albert at Laowai Chinese introduces two ideal and two undesirable Chinese face shapes: The Four Faces of Chinese People (women, really)

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    Eating Bitterness: an intro to the unprecedented Chinese migrant worker phenomenon

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    "Chinese metropolises are now home to an estimated 200 million rural-to-urban migrants . . . who occupy a precarious place in the urban hierarchy: while urbanites appreciate their labor, they are less enthusiastic about the migrants’ presence in their cities."

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    - 2012/05/10

    Chairman Mao enshrined -- literally

    When one of my young, very privileged Party-family students passionately told me, "Chairman Mao is like a god to us!" I understood he meant it as a simile. And the god metaphor is common when discussing Mao and his Cultural Revolution personality cult. But as it turns out, in some incredible irony, some other Chinese mean it literally. I heard about this before, but this is the first time I've found pictures -- Mao actually enshrined in a local temple: Mao Temple in China – Chairman Mao Becomes Local God.

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    - 2012/05/08

    A deeper look into the dynamics of living with Chinese propaganda

    Two insightful posts from Seeing Red in China, which is probably my current favourite China blog, about living in an aggressively and explicitly propagandized environment, and how Chinese try to deal with it. The propaganda still works, but in ways different than us foreigners probably tend to assume. Without further ado:

    I tell [my daughter] that she must not be afraid to take a clear moral stand. “If you see someone is being bullied,” I said, “speak up for that person.” “Be the keeper of the good.” [But] Chinese parents would have to think twice, three times, or even lose sleep, if they are to instill these values in their children, because these qualities won’t serve them very well in the Chinese society.

    We've written lots on propaganda, mostly the Chinese kind, including translations of the propaganda we've encounter in China. You can find it all in our Propaganda category.

    - 2012/05/06

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