Chinatown, Africa

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| Africa | Migrant workers | People | Places |

Our first major international experiences were in Africa, and we still have a special interest in its places and peoples. This 24 minute video goes where the kids “think all white people are Chinese” and talks to an interesting cast ensemble: the ultimate Chinese migrant workers who’ve discovered that the real Africa isn’t exactly like the one they were sold in China, an Angolan government official who loves China’s “no strings attached” policy with regard to where the aid money goes, Angolan construction “helpers” who can’t pronounce their Chinese co-workers’ names, and some articulate young Angolans who believe that despite what it looks like, China’s involvement is not really helping their country.

(From The Current via CDT):

How authentically Chinese is a Chinatown in Angola? They have lǎowài singing Hotel California during drunken karaoke sessions.

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Migrant worker CBC radio interview

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| China web debris | China: life & times | Migrant workers | People |

CBC’s China correspondent travels with his maid to her home village and presents her story on CBC radio. Like millions of migrants workers in China, she left her husband, sons, and home village behind to work in the city to be able to pay for her children’s education.

Download the mp3 from CBC (starts at 00:56 of the mp3).

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Who’s building the new New China?

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| China: life & times | Migrant workers | People | Photo posts |

I’ve been waiting a long time for a truckload-of-migrant-workers photo. Today I finally was in the right place at the right time with a camera.

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This is a small truckload, as truckloads of migrant workers go. Legions of legions (literally) of guys like these — who prefer manual labour in the cities to the rural life they left behind — built and are building (literally) the new New China.

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These guys are one of the major reasons why China can build so much so fast, and why stuff on store shelves in North America is so ridiculously cheap: migrant construction and factory workers exist in Dickensian conditions, and there are millions of them. This keeps labour costs way down, and lets China’s government/business elite pass (some of) the savings on to us!

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And yes, that’s a McDonald’s (麦当劳 / mài dāng láo) in the background.

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Meeting the migrant workers

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| China: life & times | Face | Migrant workers | Olympics | People | Places | Tianjin |

Cool experience on the way home this afternoon: We met our first two migrant workers, and they met their first two foreigners. Judging from the looks on their faces, I think they might still be in shock as I type this. Of course, the fact that I’m blogging about them might say something, too. Crazy world…

Anyway, we’d started chatting with one of our retired neighbours outside our stairwell, which is also right by the migrant labourers’ camp. (I took the photo at right while we were talking.) We asked him about the work they were doing on the roofs, and got more of an answer than we were expecting. He said that not only are they building fake roofs on all the buildings visible from the main road, but they’re also going to paint the sides of the buildings that are visible from the main road.

He said it’s because our neighbourhood is opposite the Sheraton (one of the ritziest public places in Tianjin) and during the Olympics lots of foreigners will be there and China wants the foreigners to see good looking neighbourhoods, not ugly ones with flat roofs. (Of all the things that could be changed to make things look better in the eyes of foreigners, the shape of the roofs never would have crossed my mind….) Then he went off about how China is still a poor country and not fully developed, and that spending money on projects like this is a waste when so many people need food. Jessica asked him if it was about “face” and he agreed and said, “Yes, it’s about looking good.” He pointed at their open air kitchen, saying that the workers don’t get meat; just cabbage and bǐng (饼 – Chinese biscuit).

While we were talking, two really young looking workers with a wheelbarrow passed by, staring at us. Then they backed up and stood just outside the circle of conversation, and stared at us some more before asking our neighbour first if we were foreigners (we have no idea why) and then if our neighbourhood had a lot of foreigners. We started talking with them, and although they had that shocked look – the one that you get when you discover that the exotic animal in the zoo can speak – they were really friendly, and just a little shy. 18 year olds, working long days far from home (one was I think from Henan province, the other from Hebei). They said we were the first foreigners they’d ever met, but wouldn’t shake my hand, saying their hands were too dirty. We chatted a bit, asked some of the basic questions that always get asked, and then I headed off to the vegetable market.

I’d already planned to talk to this group of migrants as much as possible, since I didn’t with the last couple crews that came through. I figured it might take a few times to really get things warmed up with them – we’ll see how it goes!

p.s. - I am continually glad that we decided to ditch the foreign ghetto that we’d been placed in by our n.g.o. and move into a regular Chinese neighbourhood (as in, a neighbourhood full of Chinese people instead of foreigners). Yes, the plumbing is bad, the toilet’s in the shower, and you get woken up in the morning by groups of old ladies slapping their thighs in unison (assuming the migrant workers hadn’t already started hammering into the roof directly above your bed at 6:30am), but even on the “bad” days, having a friendly community around is so worth it!

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Some very recent pictures, & an ancestral temple photo gallery

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| China: life & times | Culture fun | Migrant workers | People | Photo posts | Places | Running wild in the streets | Things we've eaten | Tianjin |

Here are a few photos from the last couple days. There’s a also a new photo gallery from our bike trip today to a run down family shrine and a long-disused church building.

Descriptions are under each photo. All are from today (Sunday March 9) unless it says otherwise.

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[left] When I saw the crowds on the bridge and around the banks this morning, my first thought was “Oh no, not another body.” Turns out that the fish were all swimming at the surface of the canal, and people were just scooping them out with big nets. The water level dropped several feet overnight this week, and I suspect maybe the oxygen levels are depleted and the fish are trying to breathe the air, like when I wouldn’t change the water in the goldfish bowl soon enough. [right] Migrant workers are camping in our backyard again. Behind them you can see our neighbours doing their morning tai-qi. We suspect this crew is building fake roofs on all the buildings in our neighbourhood that can be seen from the road. These facades can be seen around the city. They make it look like the roofs are pointed with dormer windows instead of flat with satellite dishes.

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Here you can see their food stash as of today – cabbage, flour, and potatoes.

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[left] Two of our teachers came over Saturday afternoon to play games, eat strawberry shortcake, and watch My Big Fat Greek Wedding in Chinese. [right] One of them brought some snacks, which included this package of pre-cooked dog meat. You’re supposed to eat it chilled.

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[left] This much colour early in the morning in the middle of a usually drab commute is like a kick in the head (the good kind). [right] Jessica buys dinner from a window shop on our way to an evening meeting this last Wednesday.

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You could spend an entire day taking photos at this run-down former ancestral temple complex. Half of it is mostly empty (a few architecture students were sketching), but the other half is filled with junk and old men hanging out playing cards and chess.

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[right] This is us riding a giant turtle or lion or luck-dragon or something. Click here for the temple complex & abandoned church photo gallery.

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Getting kicked when they’re down

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| China: life & times | Migrant workers | Travelling |

(This is probably the last Chinese New Year post.)

Chinese New Year may be even bigger than Christmas. It’s also the only time of the year when the millions of migrant workers – whose backbreaking labour for often less-than-promised wages is building China’s booming cities – get to return to their villages and see their families. Millions choose this life over trying to eke out an existence in their hometowns.

This video is a folk song for the migrant workers set to images from this year’s New Year’s migration and the chaos that came with it. At the worst possible time of year – the onset of the world’s biggest annual migration – severe snowstorms crippled China’s vulnerable train and power systems. Three electrical workers died while trying to restore power. The situation at the train stations was so bad that the Chinese PM apologized to stranded crowds at a train station in person. English translation of the lyrics is below.

“Returning Home 2008″

Windy Snow
I am on my way home
Mom is sleeping by the road
She was expecting I would be home
My old village looks run down in the winter
We migrant workers are away from home and working all over the country
We are the migratory birds of this time
Fly over the freezing walls, fly and fly…
The dreams are with us on the way home
Fly over neon lights, fly and fly…
I am missing you when I am going home

Father is really getting old
His hair is turning gray
He is waiting for me at the door…
Fly over the freezing walls, fly and fly…
[translation found here]

There’s video all over YouTube about the storm and resultant hardship. Here’s one that gives a taste of the situation at the train stations, as everyone, not just migrant workers, tries to go home for the holidays.

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China’s fabled migrant workers migrate into our backyard

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| China: life & times | Migrant workers | People | Photo posts | Places | Tianjin |

The “floating population of China” – the tens of millions who leave grueling peasant life behind to take their chances with a quasi-legal existence in China’s cities – wears many different hats in Tianjin, but construction crews or factory workers are probably the most typical. This is the second time work crews have pitched camp literally right outside our stairwell entrance. Most of these photos were taken just last week from the kitchen window (click the photos for a larger view).

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Workers often live at their temporary job site in big green tents. Most of the ones we see are tucked in neighbourhoods like ours, digging up pipes, installing manholes and fire hydrants, or in this case, TV cable, which you can see in spools littered on the lawn and piled outside the tent’s back right corner. The striped tarp wrapped around the tree and light pole may have been the bathroom.

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The banner announces that the “Great Wall Broadband” company is doing work in the neighbourhood, and politely asks everyone to pardon the inconvenience.

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Their camp is a few notches above the previous work crews’, as evidenced by the washing machine. Since these are country guys, their stares at the foreigners are more blatant. I had these guys targeted for a language practice session, where I prep some specific grammar and vocab and then go try and use it on people that it would fit more naturally, and was really looking forward to properly meeting them. But they didn’t stick around too long. As usual, when the job’s done they throw everything on a truck and drive off:

Peasants can’t just up and move their hù kǒu (户口 – legal residence) from rural to urban districts. The whole hù kǒu system was originally designed to restrict population movement in the first place. This puts migrant workers at a distinct disadvantage when it comes to urban social services, such as getting their kids into schools, though it’s reported that things are being done to address these problems. China’s cities need the cheap labour for the unbelievable amount of building going on, but can’t fully accommodate the extra population. Migrants are ineligible for many social services available to registered urban residents.

Here’s a look inside their tent as they were packing up:

You can see the beds, some playing cards strewn on one of them. This was their home for two weeks in our neighbourhood. I have no idea how long they’ve been living in this tent, or how long they’ll continue to live in it. They might not even know either.

It’s estimated that at it’s peak, roughly the entire population of Canada migrated into China’s cities every year. However, there are only so many working age people in China’s countryside, and the numbers of new migrants are dropping. This means that cheap labour will start to become not quite as cheap, and rural areas are already noticing the lack of younger, able-bodied farmers.

Getting your hù kǒu (户口) changed is not always easy, even if your request is legal, as we witnessed a local friend trying earlier this year. It requires filling out the various forms of different relevant parties, which in the West can be annoying but is still guaranteed to go through if you fill out the forms properly and you qualify. Not so for our friend. Submitting forms means anticipating the need to convince the various relevant administrators to actually care enough to “chop” (red official stamp) your paperwork. Any one of the people involved could quite easily block the process for virtually no reason without fearing recourse if the applicant is merely an anonymous member of the public. Our friend prepared a large sum of money in advance in addition to the set administrative fees and his travel expenses, so he’d be prepared to present “gifts” at the appropriate times. His story of successfully transferring his hù kǒu (户口) to Tianjin is one of navigating the bureaucracy by eventually relying on some guān xì (关系; “connections”) to get the job done. That means and old associate put in a word with someone who knew someone of consequence in the relevant department, and his paperwork made it through after a few twists and detours. Migrant workers from the countryside, however, are not eligible to apply for urban residency.

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Welcome to the City

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| China: life & times | Migrant workers | People | Photo posts |

This guy’s sign says, “I’m looking for a women to marry” and “Please come talk.”

His sign, the cobble stones, and his clothes and appearance compared to that of the people around him suggest that he’s a peasant from the countryside who has migrated to the city. In this picture he’s in some downtown shopping area surrounded by middle-class urbanites, looking for a wife.

Every year in China, migrant workers equivalent in number to the entire population of Canada move from the countryside to the city seeking work and escape from rural poverty. Collectively they are referred to as “China’s floating population.”

If this guy manages to marry an urban resident he’ll likely be able to legally stay in the city. Otherwise he won’t have legal residency when his work (usually unskilled labour on building projects) is done. Without legal residency, he’ll have to maintain an illegal, impoverished existence on the fringes of urban society or go back to the rural poverty from which he came.

Rapid urbanization is a global trend, and in our lifetime we’ll have – for the first time ever in human history – more people on the planet living in cities than in the country.

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A North American couple with a background in Intercultural Studies tries to make a life in China. This is our coping mechanismblog.

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    瓜子脸

    Pronounced: guāzǐ liǎn
    Means: Melon-seed Face. One of the ideal Chinese face shapes.

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    - 2012/03/22

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    Eating Bitterness: an intro to the unprecedented Chinese migrant worker phenomenon

    If you're unfamiliar with the urban migrant phenomenon in China -- as in, the people who make the stuff you buy and their lives -- then China’s Urban Immigrants: A Diet of Bitterness is a fine overview with lots of links for further reading.

    "Chinese metropolises are now home to an estimated 200 million rural-to-urban migrants . . . who occupy a precarious place in the urban hierarchy: while urbanites appreciate their labor, they are less enthusiastic about the migrants’ presence in their cities."

    For more on this topic you can browse our Migrant Workers category, or if you like documentaries, see these reviews of two good documentaries on migrant workers:

    - 2012/05/10

    Chairman Mao enshrined -- literally

    When one of my young, very privileged Party-family students passionately told me, "Chairman Mao is like a god to us!" I understood he meant it as a simile. And the god metaphor is common when discussing Mao and his Cultural Revolution personality cult. But as it turns out, in some incredible irony, some other Chinese mean it literally. I heard about this before, but this is the first time I've found pictures -- Mao actually enshrined in a local temple: Mao Temple in China – Chairman Mao Becomes Local God.

    For more about Mao and the Mao Era, you can browse these topics:

    - 2012/05/08

    A deeper look into the dynamics of living with Chinese propaganda

    Two insightful posts from Seeing Red in China, which is probably my current favourite China blog, about living in an aggressively and explicitly propagandized environment, and how Chinese try to deal with it. The propaganda still works, but in ways different than us foreigners probably tend to assume. Without further ado:

    I tell [my daughter] that she must not be afraid to take a clear moral stand. “If you see someone is being bullied,” I said, “speak up for that person.” “Be the keeper of the good.” [But] Chinese parents would have to think twice, three times, or even lose sleep, if they are to instill these values in their children, because these qualities won’t serve them very well in the Chinese society.

    We've written lots on propaganda, mostly the Chinese kind, including translations of the propaganda we've encounter in China. You can find it all in our Propaganda category.

    - 2012/05/06

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