Pretending to understand (and not fooling anyone)

By Joel ~
| Learning Mandarin | Lost in translation | Places | Running wild in the streets | Tianjin |

Chinese is harder first thing in the morning.

It’s 8:30am on a holiday and we’re sleeping in. The phone rings. Nine times out of ten I’d just let it ring (my college roommate hated this), but this time for some reason I jump out of bed and answer it. It’s someone speaking Chinese. What are they saying? I can feel my heart rate thudding to compensate for my sudden leap-sprint out of the warm covers. I guess (correctly) that it’s one of our neighbour’s daughter-in-laws. She’s arranging a time to meet for something – I can’t tell what. Tuesday, 6pm? Right, got it. Ok. But all that other stuff she’s saying I don’t have a clue. I just woke up! My brain’s not in gear! I say ‘Ok, great, Tuesday, 6pm,’ just make sure I heard that part right, and we hang up. I assume it’s about going to the neighbour’s and making pizza and 饺子 because we’d all talked about that last time we were over there. So that’s what I tell Jessica the phone call was about. And that’s what we plan on.

Turns out it wasn’t at the neighbours’ or even with the neighbours. Their son’s family owns a DIY baking shop and because of our connection I’m writing a Thanksgiving article highlighting it for the local expat magazine’s November edition. They’d phoned to ask us out to dinner, I’d said yes, but Jessica and I were all set to show up at his parents’ place with pizza baking supplies.

The only reason we found out in time was because Jessica just happened to be taking some friends over to their store yesterday afternoon and mentioned looking forward to making pizza with them that night. The daughter-in-law made a confused face, and soon they were laughing about the mix up.

We went out last night to dinner at a cool restaurant called 1928, which recreates a Tianjin feel from that period, complete with traditional forms of entertainment popular in Tianjin. This of course meant me drinking with the boys at one end of the table; good thing there was tons of food and we were there for hours (maybe that’s part of the plan). It’s not a cheap place, and they bought us a gift as well. I’m relieved that so many of our foreign friends bought stuff at their store that afternoon, and that I’ve got the magazine article coming up, or I’d feel like we’re in some guanxi debt.

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Is that really necessary?

By Joel ~
| Cultural perspectives |

You expect to encounter big cultural differences to which you will have to adjust, like differences in worldview orientation. But some days it seems like someone went out of their way to make differences in even the most innocuous cultural areas, as if they just want to niggle you 24/7 with they idea that “Haha! We’re different here, in fact, pretty much the opposite of your culture. And we do it on purpose, too! Just to mess with you! Haha, silly foreigner!”

For example: without warning, writing things right-to-left, as if it doesn’t really make a difference.

dscn8668.JPG

Even if you can’t read Chinese, you can see that the name of this hotel is written in opposite directions (R-L on the van, L-R on the satellite dish). This hotel’s main sign is also right-to-left.

Some more examples:

  • Counter-clockwise. Games are played counter-clockwise. How many times are we playing games and some foreigner goes, “What? Oh right, it’s my turn!”
  • Clapping. Chinese people clap to music on 1 and 3, not 2 and 4 (with the snare beat) like North Americans.
  • Addresses. In China, addresses are written putting context before subject, like this: Canada, BC, Vancouver, [Street name], [Building #], [Unit #].
  • Directions. Directions go east-south-west-north. It’s like saying Jessica grew up in the Eastnorth, rather than the Northeast.
  • Numbers. …ohhhhh numbers. Big headache for language students. We think in groups of thousands, putting a comma after every three zeros (1,000: thousand, million, billion). But in Chinese, numbers come in groups of ten thousand (1,0000: ten-thousand [], hundred-million [亿], trillion [] ). Good luck translating big numbers in your head on the fly!

And I’m sure there’s more; these are just what I could think of off the top of my head. Which of these are just random meaningless differences, and which are actually surface symptoms of deeper underlying cultural differences… who knows.

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Metaphors for Tianjin Traffic

By Joel ~
| Cultural perspectives | Places | Running wild in the streets | Tianjin |

I remember literally being awed the first time we waited at a large intersection with another new couple on our first day here. We’ve been trying (and failing) to understand and describe the Tianjin traffic experience ever since. It’s not hard to get used to, but it’s hard to explain. I’m writing an article on biking in Tianjin for the November issue, and this week collected some traffic metaphors from fellow foreigners.

“Riding a bike in Tianjin is like…”

“…downhill skiing.”
(from James, English teaching veteran of 6 or 7 years… i forget.)
Don’t think roads, lanes, lines, and well-defined, rigid rules; think ski-slopes. “If you’ve ever been on a snowy slope, you will have noticed that there are no lane-lines, but there are some basic rules:

  1. Control your speed so you can avoid accidents.
  2. Leave plenty of space when overtaking people, especially children, pregnant ladies, or the elderly.
  3. Those in front have right-of-way.”

“…spawning salmon.”
(also from James, who teaches English at Nankai U.)
Think of adult salmon swimming up a river: “a steady stream of bodies all moving in the same general direction. They move wherever they can move, taking any option to move in the right direction. There are no lines in the stream, there is only blocked space where one can’t move, and open space where one can. This is strikingly similar to rush-hour in Tianjin.”

“…herds of wildebeest in the Serengeti.”
(from Greg, 1st year language student.)
There’s safety in numbers and you should stay in the pack and go with the flow. It’s the ones who leave the pack and move outside the flow that get picked off by lions… or taxis.

“…playing Frogger.”
(a common observation)

Other common observations:

  • Large intersections have been likened to a disturbed ant nest.
  • “Tianjin traffic would make a great video game.”
  • “wading through traffic”
  • “threading the traffic”

Some of this stuff is probably a little too much for the magazine. But this is how some of the foreigners we know try to explain how bike traffic works here.

[Oct 12: Our classmate Greg describes the Tianjin biking experience here.]

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18-year-old students get first shave in rite of passage

By Joel ~
| China web debris |

From Danwei.org: “Five hundred 18-year-old freshmen men at Shanghai’s Fudan University had their first shave yesterday in a ceremony celebrating their entrance to manhood…
 
After shaving, the students also wrote statements on an “announcement wall”… like “Let me choose my own life” and “Nobody can tell me what to do anymore.”"
Most Chinese young people live with their parents until marriage, which is often increasingly delayed due to education and career pursuits.

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Chinese dairy scandal satire & complaint

By Joel ~
| China web debris |

Some Mainlanders are fed up with the corruption in the food industry. Two of these are translated from the Chinese internet:
(1) Chinese go online with food safety jokes
(2) A Happy Day in the Life of an Ordinary Chinese Person (Sanlu edition)
(3) Please Inspect Baby Formula Strictly, Just As You Censor Films

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Why KFC is kicking McD’s butt in China

By Joel ~
| China web debris |

“Liu … is very clear about the reasons for this remarkable success story. KFC China, he says, quite simply went native. ‘KFC is still seen as a foreign brand but it’s a foreign brand with local characteristics.’”

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拍马屁

By Joel ~
| Chinese take-out |

Pronounced: pāi mǎ pì
Literally: to spank the horse’s butt
Means: to kiss up, suck up, fawn over, flatter, butter up, etc. as a means of seeking favour from those above you.

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Women’s work

By Joel ~
| Being Chinese about it | Cultural perspectives | People |

I just came home from the vegetable market (photos) with three plastic bags full of fruit. Grandpa Song was out and passed me on my way in.

Grandpa Song: “What do you think you’re doing? A man, buying vegetables at the market!”
Me: “Oh, you mean this is women’s work?”
Grandpa Song: “Yeah.”
Me: “Jessica’s sick!”

Then he smiled and walked off in a way I don’t know how to interpret, but I’m pretty sure he knows Jessica having a cold has nothing to do with it.

Between dragging my feet on the 白酒 (see here, here, and here) and shopping at the vegetable market (Jessica does the supermarket shopping, I do the vegetable market shopping), these guys must think I’m the biggest [insert your choice sexist insult here] in the whole neighbourhood! Good thing he doesn’t know I also do the laundry and clean the bathroom…

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No-go zones: what we avoid talking (and writing) about in Tianjin

By Joel ~
| Being Chinese about it | China: life & times | Learning Mandarin | People | Regular Zhou |

Several months ago I interviewed a former street-food vendor for the Regular Zhou column. My Chinese isn’t that good, so I have to get help transcribing the recordings into Chinese. But this time there was a problem. After hearing what this woman in her 50′s had to say, people are refusing to help me transcribe it.

If the interviewee talks into a conversation area that I have no vocabulary for, talks too fast, too unclear, uses bad grammar or uses too much Tianjin dialect, they can lose me pretty quick. Usually I transcribe as much of the interview as I can myself, and then get help filling in the gaps. Then I translate it into English, get help with the difficult bits, and from the English write the column. It’s monstrously tedious, and not at all worth it merely for the column itself, but it’s language practice and the people are interesting.

During the semester finding transcription help is easy because there are local university students at our school who have to log hours practicing teaching foreigners Chinese. This means free extra class/practice for us Mandarin students; we voluntarily sign up for as many hours a day as we want! All the previous Regular Zhou articles had their help. But during the summer semester our “language slaves” (we mean that affectionately) were gone and I had to ask others for a favour.

First I took an hour of regular class time and asked one of my real teachers to help me. After listening for a bit he started saying, “天哪!” (tiān nǎ / “Heavens!”) and laughing in the way Mainlanders do when they’re embarrassed and/or uncomfortable. He started dragging his feet and making it quite clear that he didn’t want to do it, so I gave up (I didn’t want to waste class time on this anyway). Next I tried a local friend, who was a Regular Zhou himself. When he came to certain sections, he’d just tell me, “This part is useless. It’s not interesting. You don’t need it. Let’s skip it.” He made the whole process so burdensome that I was happy to have him stop helping. For my third attempt I took a long shot and asked the editor if anyone on staff could transcribe it for me. He said sure, and had me email the audio files to one of the magazine’s local staff. She flat out refused after listening to it, saying it was way too sensitive. So this interview has been on hold until last week, when the local university sent over a fresh batch of language slaves.

Most school days this semester I do two or three hours of real class, two hours of free practice with the local students, and now one extra hour on this transcript (it will only take a few hours total to finish). For most of these practice sessions I’ve had the same student. We’ve gotten on really well, and he’s willing to help me finish it. We’re about 3/4 of the way done. When he came to the sensitive sections, I had to reassure him that I wasn’t going to publish the embarrassing stuff and even if I wanted to I couldn’t because they’d censor it out anyway. He said he was worried that it would make it into Western media. I told him don’t worry, I’m not a real writer and no Western magazines or newspapers want my stuff. He was still afraid someone might steal it from me and publish it in Western media. I told him they already have lots of material like this, plus now there’s a bit of backlash against ‘China bashing’ in some English-language media.

So what was the terrible, forbidden material? I already knew that the woman had talked about her family’s experiences during the Cultural Revolution. At least one of her siblings was sent “up the mountain and down to the countryside” (上山下乡 / shàng shān xià xiāng). Someone was killed, and someone committed suicide by jumping off a building, but I couldn’t catch all the details on my own. The magazine staff and my real teacher had reacted to this section, I think. But that’s not the offending section beside which this student wrote “careful” and marked off with brackets.

It turn out this former streetfood vendor who now sells hot lunches out of a 1st floor doorway had some complaints about how the Olympics are irrelevant to her life except for the negative impact on her livelihood. The citywide pre-Olympic facelift made it harder for her to make a living, and she thinks they were wrong they way they treated people like her. That’s the taboo content that people didn’t want me to see and don’t want me to write about.

The student who’s helping me trusts, or at least hopes, that I won’t take this material and use it to intentionally make China look bad. He’s right, plus I appreciate him taking the chance and helping me out. But I suspect that he and I may have very different ideas about what counts as fair, appropriate, non-malicious, well-intentioned writing. (I realize that foreigners are only one of their main audiences, but I wish people here could see that overly-sensitive censorship itself makes a much worse impression in the eyes of Westerners than whatever the particular content is that they’re censoring.)

After we’d transcribed this section and had our little talk about being careful with it, he looked at what she’d said and remarked, “She’s right.” Not that it really matters, because by the time her profile makes it into the local expat magazine, it will be safely saccharin-ized.

I’ll post a slightly more interesting version on the blog when the time comes. After all, she’s quite a character, grew up in Tianjin’s “no man’s land” hutongs (南市三不管 / nán shì sān bù guǎn) and has lived through a lot (same generation as “Old Lu”).

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“Invisible Man” Chinese contemporary art (photos)

By Joel ~
| China web debris |

It looks cool and it makes a point: The invisible man in China (Chinese contemporary art from Liubolin)

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A North American couple with a background in Intercultural Studies tries to make a life in China. This is our coping mechanismblog.

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    Photos

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    2010 Galleries:
    ~ Tianjin, Beijing & Henan
    2008 Galleries:
    ~ Tianjin & Beijing
    2007 Galleries:
    ~ Tianjin, Beijing, Chiangmai & Taipei
    2006 Galleries:
    ~ Taipei, Hong Kong & Vancouver

    Click the "[+/-]" to show/hide the gallery list for each year.

    Conversations

    NPR series: “New Believers – a religious revolution in China” (3)
     Joel: "One thing I don’t understand is how attempting to..."
     Dr Ross Grainger: "As someone who has been angaged in Buddhist..."
     Darren: "yeah, it’s rising, I have seen this happening..."

    Making our neighbourhood more “civilized” (2)
     Paul: "We just returned from Inner Mongolia, where we saw many..."
     Carl: "This seems to be the norm, someone comes in and tells..."

    A banquet, baijiu & Bon Jovi (my first office party in China) (3)
     Lep: "I was warned – in time – that many KTV..."

    Metaphors for Tianjin Traffic (7)
     Lep: "I have seen the crumpled bike underneath a car. It is..."
     Carl: "These are all so very true, I’ve learned to give..."

    Hu Shi’s 1927 editorial on the impending demise of Christianity in China (1)
     Dr Ross Grainger: "I’m not sure if Hu Shi is right or..."

    Behaving yourself… with Tianjin characteristics (4)
     Joel: "Right. My point was that popular usage of the term is..."

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    Chinese take-out

    Good good study, day day up!

    蓝精灵

    Pronounced: lán jīnglíng
    Literally: blue spirit/demon/fairy
    Means: a Smurf, the Smurfs

    - 2010/07/01

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    InterWǎng Debris

    Recent China internet debris.

    China in 2013 -- a dystopian novel skewers "the China model of development"

    The China Beat provides a helpful summary of a dystopian novel critical of the way things are in China: "The novel can be read ... as a realistic presentation of the shocking darkness behind the dazzling economic miracle created by the Chinese model. It also proposes that China’s younger generations suffer from the consequences of collective amnesia and historical half-truths... The book can also be read ... as an allegory of the modern nation-state. Taking China as a case study, by questioning the morality and political legitimacy of the Chinese model of development, the novel is intended to lead us to the potential catastrophes that a modern nation-state may bring about if it is out of its people’s control."

    - 2010/07/28

    Air pollution update & links (it's getting worse)

    The Ministry of Environmental Protection acknowledged on Monday that the first half of 2010 had the worst air quality since 2005.

    The good doctor in Beijing recently conducted a new air pollution survey around the city, comparing indoor and outdoor pollution, and the effects of things like air purifiers.

    There's also an air pollution Q&A with another doctor in Beijing about the actual effects on healthy people and when and where to exercise.

    - 2010/07/27

    NPR series: "New Believers - a religious revolution in China"

    NPR has an on-going series on the apparent rise of religious belief in China.

    - 2010/07/24

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