新年快乐!

By Joel ~
| Chinese take-out |

Pronounced: xīn nián kuài lè
Means: Happy New Year!

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December’s propaganda

By Joel ~
| Photo posts | Places | Propaganda | Tianjin | Underappreciated genius |

Not all propaganda is bad; here I’m using the word in a more redeemable sense. Full marks to the guy responsible for this:

Now, you might be wondering what the big deal is. You might also be wondering why that sign has picture of a beer bottle and two bleeding wine glasses attacking a car. Tianjin has a lot of bizarre traffic signs, but this one is actually a small stroke of genius.

Behold, at right, the Chinese character for alcohol, pronounced: “jiǔ.” And now, take closer look at the picture on that street sign:

It says:

严禁酒后驾车
yán jìn jiǔ hòu jià chē
“Strictly Prohibited: Driving vehicles after alcohol”

Geniuses. And you, along with thousands of other illiterate lǎo wài, thought it was just a weird-looking street sign. Of course, I did, too, until we made to the Ordering Food lesson.

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Quick update, and help us name a mystery carcass

By Joel ~
| Learning Mandarin | Lost in translation | People | Pollution | Running wild in the streets |

The first days back in class after a break are always a little rough. Mr. and Mr. Sòng made it a little more interesting on what they probably didn’t realize was Boxing Day by placing the still bleeding head of an as-yet-unidentified former animal on the electrical utilities box near the entrance to our complex. The rest of the just-barely-dead carcass was in a plastic shopping bag on the back of Mr. ‘s bike.

I thought it was a dog, but they said no, it’s an animal we don’t have in America called a pāo zi (I’m 90% certain that’s what they said). I’ve asked around, and some Chinese friends came up with páo zi (狍子), which is some kind of deer, but since when are deer carnivores? (warning: the photo‘s kind of gross). Mr. bought the whole thing at the market around the corner for 50 kuài (about $6.75). He said he’s going to make stew. One person thought it might be a 黄鼠狼 (“yellow-rat-wolf” a.k.a. weasel?), but there was disagreement over whether or not you can eat those (the southerner stated matter-of-factly: “If it’s an animal, you can eat it”). Take a look at the photo and the links on the Chinese words (linked to google images) and tell us what you think it is/was.

It finally snowed this morning! We had a white Christmas, if you count a week of near-impenetrable fog. Now it’s after lunch, dry, and sunny, but the snow sucked a lot of the pollution out of the air (it made the sky a weird yellow colour for an hour or so today).

Jessica is sick, and has been for a while now. There’s this nasty bug going around that makes people cough all night for two weeks. One local said it’s just because it hasn’t snowed that everyone is getting sick (because the snow will clear the air of all the pollution). Jessica has medicine (both kinds!) and is getting better.

We just had two days off from class for of Christmas, which included a Boxing Day Christmas party with friends, and next week we get three for New Years, so we’re going to take it easy for a little while and have some fun. Maybe run around town for a bit. All these days off make coming back to class hard, because spending all this holiday time with foreigners in English takes your brain out of Chinese gear, and getting back into gear always takes a bit of effort.

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圣诞快乐! (Merry Christmas!)

By Joel ~
| Blessings | Family |

After skyping for close to two hours with family, we went to friends’ last night (Christmas Eve) for a party and watched The Nativity movie. Going out to more friends’ today for another Christmas party. We’ll have our teachers over next week. Here’s a poem for Christmas 2007:

The Carol
Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace among men with whom he is pleased. – Luke 2:14

Untuned, I’m flat on my feet, sharp with my tongue,
A walking talking dischord, out of sorts,
My heart murmurs are entered in lab reports.
The noise between my ears cannot be sung.

Ill-pleased, I join a line of hard-to-please people
Who want to exchange their lumpy bourgeois souls
For a keen Greek mind and a strong Roman nose,
Then find ourselves, surprised, at the edge of a stable.

Caroling angels and a well-pleased God
Join a choir of cow and sheep and dog

At this barnyard border between wish and gift.
I glimpse the just-formed flesh, now mine. They lift

Praise voices and sing twelve tones
Of pleasure into my muscles, into my bones.

– Eugene Peterson (you know, the guy who wrote that version of the Bible that Bono likes).

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圣诞快乐!

By Joel ~
| Chinese take-out |

Pronounced: shèng dàn kuài lè
Means: Merry Christmas!

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Playing on thin ice, interviewing locals, gifts, and stuff

By Joel ~
| Culture fun | Learning Mandarin | People | Running wild in the streets |

I went out this morning to interview Mr. , the neighbourhood bike repairman, and we ended up walking on thin ice – literally. I was trying to chat a bit before we started our interview (see below), and asked about the canal being frozen and when we’d be able to walk on it. He was like, “C’mon! We can go right now!” and walked across the street and down out onto the creaking ice. He turned around and told me to come on. I really wanted this interview, so I thought of light things and placed a tentative foot onto the ice at the edge, where I could see water sloshing up the concrete sides. We walked around in the middle of the canal, where it didn’t creak as much as it did along the edges. I would have taken his picture but he was between me and the sun, plus he told me to back off when I got too close to him; he was afraid our combined weight would be too much in one spot.

You just don’t have these kinds of experiences growing up around Vancouver, where I think I only played hockey on a frozen pond once, and maybe twice on frozen cranberry fields. Of course, there’re plenty of Chinese people to walk around with should a Vancouverite ever find questionable ice to walk around on.

Yesterday afternoon and this morning I “interviewed” (used loosely here) two local characters: Mr. Cháng, who cuts hair on the sidewalk, and Mr. , who parks his three-wheeled mobile tool cabinet at the entrance to our neighbourhood and fixes bicycles from breakfast ’til dinnertime. I’m taking over a monthly magazine column that is supposed to give Tianjin’s foreign community a peak into the lives of the average Zhou; basically helping humanize local blue collar folks in the eyes of foreigners. The writing gig is not near as glorious as it sounds; with such a relatively small pool of foreigners, this isn’t the kind of thing you’d have to interview for (I didn’t). Nor is my Chinese near the level required for this, but I can get by with a voice recorder and a little help from my teachers. I only agreed to do it because it will light an extra fire under my spoken language practice, and I’ve wanted to find out more about our neighbours since we first moved in.

I brought a plate of homemade (by Jessica) cookies to the interview, thinking it’d be nice since he was doing me a favour. Unlike last time, when no one would touch the food I brought, I knew this time I needed to basically force it on them. Him and the three or four buddies who were there at the time didn’t hesitate too much this time. What I didn’t expect was how fast it would be reciprocated. After the interview a left for 20 minutes to get Jessica some lunch (she’s sick and stayed home today). By the time I came back Mr had a handful of pickled vegetable snack packages for me. Later Mr. Sòng caught me on the way home around dinnertime and invited me up to his apartment for a chat. He wouldn’t let me leave without a loaf of bread from his bread machine and a bag of spaghetti noodles.

Tomorrow (Saturday) morning we are outta here(!) for an overnight trip with another couple to a place I can’t mention in case Zhōu Jùn‘s girlfriend is reading this, because she’s not supposed to know where we’re going some cool outdoor hotsprings. Anyway, we’re really looking forward to our first “vacation” since arriving here ten months ago. Merry Christmas to us!

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Dead puppies (don’t look, Grandma!) – menu included

By Joel ~
| Culture fun | Running wild in the streets | Things we've eaten |

Learning Chinese characters makes our China experience so much richer. You can tell which restaurants specialize in dog meat, for example, and then invite some friends to go try it one night, which is what we did yesterday. I’ve translated part of the menu, and you can download it (*see below) and see what we had to choose from.

The five of us included one other language student, one of my teachers, a local friend, Chuck the Bright Future intern, and myself. Jessica is sick with a bad cold and didn’t come (but she was really looking forward to it). As restaurants go, this was one of the deeper dives, so to speak; it was about as dirty as the converted-first-floor-apartment former-street-vendor noodle windows that I get cheap lunches from, except this was a sit-down place, so the grunge was a little more noticeable. When we arrived, we were the only people in the restaurant – not an encouraging sign.

Everyone was happy to try a little dog except one of our local friends, who actually turned green the more he looked into our big bowl of dog rib stew and contemplated its history. I think he only dipped his chopsticks in the sauce and licked them off. I tried to tell him it was just like a big rabbit (gotta work with whatever vocab you have!), but it didn’t seem to help. Aside from having a lot of gelatinous skin and fat, the dog rib stew was pretty good.

For our first time, and with someone who was visibly ill, just ordering regular meat was fine. But next time I plan to branch out; there’re a lot of parts besides meat to be had in dog restaurants like this. The party that was just sitting down when we were leaving ordered skin, face, and tongue for their hot-pot. See the partially-translated menu for further details.

View the Menu
*I went a couple weeks ago and copied their menu so we could translate it and actually know what we had to choose from. I knew the selection would be a little gnarly, but wow; it exceeded my expectations with the first dish, and then just got worse (or better, depending on your tastes). I kept the basic layout of the original, meaning that everything in my (very) rough (and error-ridden) translation appears in the same order as it does in the actual menu. DISCLAIMER: I was overly-literal on purpose for the sake of learning the characters, plus, there are lots of straight-up errors (‘backbone’ and ‘spine’ I think should actually be called something else). Here’s a sample entry:

Dog face stew………………………18 per dish
扒狗脸 – pā gǒu liǎn………………(盘 / pán)
(lit.: “stewed dog face”)

Download the dog restaurant menu here (PDF).
$1 = 7.5元 (roughly).
Dog dishes are on pages 1, 4 and 5.

P.S.
I suppose I should say something about being obnoxious in other peoples’ countries with another culture’s food: it’s pretty easy to do. Foreigners find something about the host culture that really grosses them out, and so they want to go try it just to have a laugh, usually at the expense of the locals. We deliberately tried not to do that this time. Unlike “Snake Alley” in Taibei (which embarrasses our local friends there, most of whom have never eaten snake and think it’s gross), a lot (the majority?) of Tianjin locals don’t think it’s any big deal to eat dog meat. Some like it, some don’t, just like anything else. I wanted to have fun trying something new and challenge my comfort zone while still respecting our local friends and their culture – this is also pretty easy to do, always worth the effort, and usually a lot of fun.

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放马过来!

By Joel ~
| Chinese take-out |

Pronounced: fàng mǎ guò lai
Literally: let (your) horse come over (here)
Means: “Bring it on!” (like at the start of a fight, one person talking smack to the other.)

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Why they hate the Japanese

By Joel ~
| China books | China: life & times | Learning | The Rape of Nanking |

We were in a local history museum when ‘Shine Far’ looked right at me and said, “I hate the Japanese.” It still surprises me how matter-of-fact and unapologetic some of our Chinese acquaintances are about their feelings toward the “little Japanese devils” (小日本鬼子). Some of teachers at our school have requested in the past to not teach the few Japanese students at the school, two of whom are an older couple we’re acquainted with.

In philosophy and ethics classes I heard the joke more than once that everything eventually has to do with the Nazis. In my education, the Nazis were the proof and symbol of evil in the world, and were always finding their way into thought experiments, ethical dilemmas, debates regarding human nature, and arguments over the existence and nature of God. There was also this unspoken rule I grew up with – that perhaps the most un-politically correct thing you can do is treat the Nazi Holocaust as anything but the greatest evil ever committed by humanity, and you sure shouldn’t cheapen it by comparing it to other events.

The Rape of Nanking is the representative historical event for all of Japan’s atrocities in China during WWII. The book by the same the name calls it “the Forgotten Holocaust of WWII,” and then proceeds to make the case for not just holding the brutality of “the Rape” as generally comparable to the Holocaust, but even surpassing it in certain aspects:

“Nothing the Nazis under Hitler would do to disgrace their own victories could rival the atrocities of Japanese soldiers under Gen. Iwane Matsui” (historian Robert Leckie) (p. 7).

…the Japanese treatment of their POW’s surpassed in brutality even that of the Nazi’s. … the Rape of Nanking was not the kind of isolated incident common to all wars. It was deliberate. It was policy. It was known in Tokyo. For that matter, it was front page news in the world press (p. 173).

The events related in the book are beyond brutal; part of you dies inside just from reading it. I don’t know how anyone could make a movie that would be possible to watch. But there is quite a “Schindler’s List”-type story here. In the midst of brutality for which language cannot possibly convey any adequate expression, the oddest assortment of Westerners – Nazis and missionaries – combined forces to form a safety zone within the city and save hundreds of thousands of Chinese lives. These heroes risked their own lives multiple times during the Rape, and suffered physically and psychologically for the rest of their lives; one eventually committed suicide. Ironically, these Westerners originally chose to stay rather than evacuate, thinking that the greatest danger to the civilian population would be the retreating Chinese soldiers, and that the Japanese were more or less trustworthy (as occupying armies go) and would restore order and basic infrastructure once they’d captured the city. Instead, the Japanese military intentionally sunk the warship that was carrying the foreigners who had chosen to evacuate, and then went on to rival and perhaps even surpass the Nazis.

Japan as a nation still refuses to acknowledge what happened* [see comment #4].

Sixty years later the Japanese as a nation are still trying to bury the victims of Nanking — not under the soil, as in 1937, but into historical oblivion. In a disgraceful compounding of the offense, the story of the Nanking massacre is barely known in the West because so few people have tried to document and narrate it systematically to the public (pp. 219-220).

It’s not in their textbooks* [see comment #4]. Germany had to face the music, but some of Japan’s commanding officers went on to lead decorated lives of honour and privilege. Academics in Japan still vigorously deny the charges.

…Germans have incorporated into their postwar political identity the concession that the wartime government itself, not just individual Nazis, was guilty of war crimes. The Japanese government, however, has never forced itself or Japanese society to do the same. As a result … many in Japan continue to treat the war crimes as the isolated acts of individual soldiers or even as events that simply did not occur (p. 200).

Compounding the situation is China’s current administration, which has always spun the war with Japan, and Chinese public sentiment, in beneficial ways, stoking hatred of a common, nationalism-galvanizing enemy when it’s convenient to do so. Museums, like the one we visited with ‘Shine Far,’ play an important role in this:

The first rooms of the spacious museum depict China as a victim of Japanese aggression, but as the visitor moves towards the exit, he is treated to an interpretation of China as almost the lone victor on World War II in Asia.

The two factors widely credited with ending the war get only cursory treatment.

The Soviet invasion of Japanese-occupied Northeast Asia in the summer of 1945 is mentioned in passing, and America’s nuclear bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki not at all.

… It’s more promoting the internal unity under the guidance of the party. [Full text]

The older Japanese couple who were in our language school last semester made it a point to host special meals with their Chinese colleagues and closer acquaintances, during which they would personally apologize on behalf of their country for what happened. They still live in China and still do this, though they’ve now moved to a city in the south. Some of our school’s teachers originally requested to not be assigned to them when they first enrolled, solely because they were Japanese. Their request was not granted – in fact, our school’s American administrator confessed to me that his teachers’ requests may have influenced his decision to assign those teachers to the Japanese couple – but after a few weeks the teachers actually thanked him for doing it. One of these teachers recently returned from a trip she’d made just to visit them, and came back talking about how great she thinks they are.

China marked the 70th anniversary of the Rape of Nanking last Thursday.

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Karaoke Party!

By Joel ~
| Being Chinese about it | Culture fun | Karaoke | People | Photo posts | Running wild in the streets |

You can’t live in China long without eventually finding yourself at a karaoke party. It was my first time, Jessica’s second. The place was huge; several floors of karaoke rooms to which “swanky” can’t even begin to do justice. Apparently they chose this particular place because it’s known for its nice rooms and good speakers, rather than its pretty girls and additional services. Chuck and Kristi had to open with Hotel California, and before we were done we’d made it through Can You Feel the Love Tonight, Somewhere Out There, Every Thing I Do (I Do it for You), Eternal Flame, some Simon and Garfunkel, and I can’t even remember what else. It was actually more fun than I imagined it would be.

A Party Secretary at Tianjin University, who is really supportive of the Bright Future project, threw a karaoke party for the teachers and students from this semester’s Bright Future class. Officially, it was to honour Chuck, who’s worked as the Bright Future intern the last several months. Click the photos to see them full size, mouseover for people’s names.


If only they had a Disney music section…

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A North American couple with a background in Intercultural Studies tries to make a life in China. This is our coping mechanismblog.

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    2010 Galleries:
    ~ Tianjin, Beijing & Henan
    2008 Galleries:
    ~ Tianjin & Beijing
    2007 Galleries:
    ~ Tianjin, Beijing, Chiangmai & Taipei
    2006 Galleries:
    ~ Taipei, Hong Kong & Vancouver

    Click the "[+/-]" to show/hide the gallery list for each year.

    Conversations

    Chinese tattoos in Vancouver (4)
     k: "Hi there. My partner and I are engaged to be married, and..."

    NPR series: “New Believers – a religious revolution in China” (4)
     Dr Ross Grainger: "Generally speaking and, I can’t speak..."
     Joel: "One thing I don’t understand is how attempting to..."
     Dr Ross Grainger: "As someone who has been angaged in Buddhist..."
     Darren: "yeah, it’s rising, I have seen this happening..."

    Making our neighbourhood more “civilized” (2)
     Paul: "We just returned from Inner Mongolia, where we saw many..."
     Carl: "This seems to be the norm, someone comes in and tells..."

    A banquet, baijiu & Bon Jovi (my first office party in China) (3)
     Lep: "I was warned – in time – that many KTV..."

    Metaphors for Tianjin Traffic (7)
     Lep: "I have seen the crumpled bike underneath a car. It is..."
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    Chinese take-out

    Good good study, day day up!

    蓝精灵

    Pronounced: lán jīnglíng
    Literally: blue spirit/demon/fairy
    Means: a Smurf, the Smurfs

    - 2010/07/01

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    InterWǎng Debris

    Recent China internet debris.

    China in 2013 -- a dystopian novel skewers "the China model of development"

    The China Beat provides a helpful summary of a dystopian novel critical of the way things are in China: "The novel can be read ... as a realistic presentation of the shocking darkness behind the dazzling economic miracle created by the Chinese model. It also proposes that China’s younger generations suffer from the consequences of collective amnesia and historical half-truths... The book can also be read ... as an allegory of the modern nation-state. Taking China as a case study, by questioning the morality and political legitimacy of the Chinese model of development, the novel is intended to lead us to the potential catastrophes that a modern nation-state may bring about if it is out of its people’s control."

    - 2010/07/28

    Air pollution update & links (it's getting worse)

    The Ministry of Environmental Protection acknowledged on Monday that the first half of 2010 had the worst air quality since 2005.

    The good doctor in Beijing recently conducted a new air pollution survey around the city, comparing indoor and outdoor pollution, and the effects of things like air purifiers.

    There's also an air pollution Q&A with another doctor in Beijing about the actual effects on healthy people and when and where to exercise.

    - 2010/07/27

    NPR series: "New Believers - a religious revolution in China"

    NPR has an on-going series on the apparent rise of religious belief in China.

    - 2010/07/24

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